Pet urine removal
I made this page available to help local military who have to have urine removed from a carpet. The information is provided as a courtesy and there are limits to urine removal with certain situations. For example, situations that include large animals that produce a quantity of urine great enough to penetrate the carpet cushion (pad)/sub-floor and certain types of cat urine.
How do I remove urine and pass a black-light inspection by doing the work myself?
Step 1: locate EVERY spot of urine in/on the carpet by using a blacklight.
In order to use a black-light properly, the room MUST be dark – and the darker, the better. The most effective (cost & time) method of accomplishing this is by purchasing a roll of 8’ by 100’ 6 mil black plastic (available at most construction supply houses like AIH, Home Depot, etc.). Then, roll the plastic out so it is wider than the window by a 6 inches or so, cut and attach the upper end with duct tape above the window top. If needed, you can fasten the sides as well so the plastic will block all light.
If you don’t have access to an affordable black-light (that will detect urine: not all do!), then purchase one from Cold Spot Feeds (usually around $30.00 plus AA batteries). If you are going to keep pets, the light is WELL worth it. Their website is: http://www.coldspotfeeds.com .
When you locate a spot* (has a yellow/green tinge) OR what MAY be a spot, then you apply the product** until the area is fully saturated (‘squishy’ wet) and cover for 24 to 48 hours with either a piece of left over window plastic, plastic bag, wet (and kept wet) cloth/towel, etc. After the 24 to 48 hour period, remove the covering and let dry. At this point, it is best to have your carpet cleaned professionally, but you can also clean it yourself with a properly functioning rental machine (advice page on how to use a rental machine for the ‘best bang for the dollar’ coming soon, until then, call Coby Gibson @ 45-CLEAN (452-5326) for FREE advice.
*You can rapidly learn how to detect what is urine ‘fluorescing’ and what isn’t by ‘testing’ the spots that do fluoresce… Urine odor remains, and you can detect it by getting your nose down to the carpet :-). Sometimes, inspectors with ‘help’ the odor production by applying heat (with a commercial blacklight bulb or with nearly boiling water/brush) if they have a doubt… you can do the same by using the nearly boiling water/brush to agitate the spot and ‘sniff’…. Best course of action? If it could be urine, then treat it! PLEASE note: I’ve been on inspections that have required the replacements of large room carpets because of one (1) dime size spot of urine detected.
Yes, after doing all the above, you will still likely see fluoresce of the same spots you treated, probably not nearly as defined/bright, but still detectable. The difference is that now, it is no longer urine left in the carpet (unless you missed it :-) and it will not have an odor.
How do I remove urine and pass a black-light inspection by doing the work myself?
Step 1: locate EVERY spot of urine in/on the carpet by using a blacklight.
In order to use a black-light properly, the room MUST be dark – and the darker, the better. The most effective (cost & time) method of accomplishing this is by purchasing a roll of 8’ by 100’ 6 mil black plastic (available at most construction supply houses like AIH, Home Depot, etc.). Then, roll the plastic out so it is wider than the window by a 6 inches or so, cut and attach the upper end with duct tape above the window top. If needed, you can fasten the sides as well so the plastic will block all light.
If you don’t have access to an affordable black-light (that will detect urine: not all do!), then purchase one from Cold Spot Feeds (usually around $30.00 plus AA batteries). If you are going to keep pets, the light is WELL worth it. Their website is: http://www.coldspotfeeds.com .
When you locate a spot* (has a yellow/green tinge) OR what MAY be a spot, then you apply the product** until the area is fully saturated (‘squishy’ wet) and cover for 24 to 48 hours with either a piece of left over window plastic, plastic bag, wet (and kept wet) cloth/towel, etc. After the 24 to 48 hour period, remove the covering and let dry. At this point, it is best to have your carpet cleaned professionally, but you can also clean it yourself with a properly functioning rental machine (advice page on how to use a rental machine for the ‘best bang for the dollar’ coming soon, until then, call Coby Gibson @ 45-CLEAN (452-5326) for FREE advice.
*You can rapidly learn how to detect what is urine ‘fluorescing’ and what isn’t by ‘testing’ the spots that do fluoresce… Urine odor remains, and you can detect it by getting your nose down to the carpet :-). Sometimes, inspectors with ‘help’ the odor production by applying heat (with a commercial blacklight bulb or with nearly boiling water/brush) if they have a doubt… you can do the same by using the nearly boiling water/brush to agitate the spot and ‘sniff’…. Best course of action? If it could be urine, then treat it! PLEASE note: I’ve been on inspections that have required the replacements of large room carpets because of one (1) dime size spot of urine detected.
Yes, after doing all the above, you will still likely see fluoresce of the same spots you treated, probably not nearly as defined/bright, but still detectable. The difference is that now, it is no longer urine left in the carpet (unless you missed it :-) and it will not have an odor.
PRODUCTS The most success we have seen is using a product supplied by Waxie Janitorial (used to be ‘Asplund Supply’, but bought out by Waxie in the summer of 2008). Their employees recommend a septic tank digester product called “Spring Mint” that has consistently proven it to be the most effective product available for urine removal that I have witnessed from dozens of military housing black-light inspections. It is inexpensive and available normally in quarts, gallons, and 5 gallon containers. The most common will be multiple gallons for an average size home. Many of the folks that I have followed up with were also able to add one or two parts water with equal success before applying the product to their carpet (saves money! :-). You can judge how much you are likely to need based on the number of spots you find: just remember; Waxie is not a retail store and is only open Monday through Friday 9am to 4pm. If you have left over product, you can take it with you! Get what you will need plus some!
Their information is: http://www.waxie.com
Another product that produces great results is available at A & W Wholesale. It is called “Liquid Alive”. There information is: A & W Wholesale, Inc. www.awwholesale.com
2525 Phillips Field Road
Fairbanks, AK 99709-3942
(907) 452-2138
-A & W is diagonally across Peger Road from Spenard Builders Supply.
45-CLEAN CARPETS (45-CLEAN is 452-5326)
PO Box 74037
(3010 Industrial Ave)
Fairbanks, Alaska, 99707
carpet@45clean.com
PO Box 74037
(3010 Industrial Ave)
Fairbanks, Alaska, 99707
carpet@45clean.com
